The 2x2 Crochet Hat

Faux-knit look, with a hook!

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Difficulty level

🧶 Intermediate

Size-inclusive

🧶 Pattern written for 6 sizes to fit most kid, teen and adult heads

🧶 2 styles in 1 pattern: short or long hat, easily customizable

🧶 Fits heads from 17.5″ to 24″

What you'll need

🧶 I used Furls Wander acrylic yarn and my 6 mm limited-edition Cruella Streamline crochet hook, which were kindly supplied by Furls. See below for the estimated yardage for each size.

🧶 I also used my tape measure to check for gauge and measure my hat, as well as scissors, a darning needle, and 7-9 stitch markers.

Pattern support

🧶 For pattern related questions, please join my Facebook support group or contact me at thecrochethighway [at] gmail.com.

Purchase the ad-free PDF version 👇🏻

NEW RELEASE

Reversible Crochet Sweater
The Scorpio is mysterious and has many secrets to reveal. Be it the reversible nature, or the two different styles the pattern comes in, this design is the epitome of versatile.

The 2×2 Crochet Hat

The 2×2 Crochet Hat is worked from side to side, featuring crown shaping achieved with the short rows technique. The extended half double crochet and slip stitch pattern mimics the beloved 2×2 ribbed fabric from knitting. The crochet fabric provides a thicker hat with more structure, yet it is just as stylish. The hat is very stretchy and is intended to be worn with 3-6” (7.5-15 cm) of negative ease. Depending on your yarn and fiber, the elasticity of the fabric may change. This pattern allows for an easy modification of the circumference in order to account for different elasticities.

Both swatches are made by tester Julia (@stitches_seams_and_chaos on Instagram). She swears that the left is crocheted, and the right is knitted, but I honestly find it very hard to tell the difference. Can you?

Designer samples

I released this pattern as part of Crochet Foundry Magazine’s 2023 Blog Hop. Check it out for more amazing free patterns!

My samples all show size 6 and use Furls Wander acrylic yarn in Peninsula, Moonbeam, and Agave. The WPI of this yarn is 8. Learn how to measure the WPI of your yarn.

The Wander acrylic yarn is a soft, squishy and shiny yarn which is the perfect yarn option for this hat. The acrylic fiber provides durability and elasticity, and it’s a great pick for a hat for the cold season due to its abrasion-resistant nature which wicks away moisture and is quick-drying. The yarn also has great stitch definition, which highlights the gorgeous and elegant crochet texture!

The long hat is shown in Moonbeam (gray), and the short hat is shown in Agave (green). The hat I made in Peninsula is a prototype and it’s a mix in between the two styles.

I used my 6 mm Limited Edition Cruella Streamline Crochet Hook. I’m a tight crocheter, so you may have to go down in hook size.

Join my Facebook support Group

I proud myself with writing ultra-detailed patterns for you, so that your crocheting experience is as smooth and seamless as possible. But whenever you have a pattern related question, my Facebook support group is the place to ask. There you can also share your WIPs and brag about your FOs with the community!

Tester highlights

Scroll down for the complete tester lookbook, where you can find photos, yarn & yardage info from all my testers!

A word from my testers

Lori-@inthelooptbay-7-2

A wonderful pattern, easy to use. I always love when there is a row tracker!

The 2×2 Crochet Hat works up beautifully in worsted weight yarn. My first completed hat was a solid blue and very lovely. But I could not shake the need to try this one in the medicine wheel colours. I really love how it turned out!

- Lori (lkwiatko on Ravelry)
Caitlin @divergentfibreart-5

This is the toque pattern I’ve been looking for for years! It’s simple to make but looks (and feels) fantastic when I’m wearing it. The stitch detailing on the crown is lovely, and it’s such a fun opportunity to play with colour blocking.

Caitlin (divergentfibreart on Ravelry)
Dora-@La_nayelyz-4-2

It is a beautiful pattern! I will definitely make a few as gifts this fall & winter.

Dora (Oneflychik10 on Ravelry)
Laura-@one_pinksunshine-4-2

I had never made a pattern of yours, it brings all the information and at first I was overwhelmed but then I saw that I could understand everything!

Laura (Laurilla on Ravelry)

Yardage

Short hat: (80, 100, 120) (140, 160, 180) yds, or (75, 90, 110) (130, 145, 165) m

Long hat: (115, 145, 175) (200, 225, 250) yds, or (105, 135, 160) (185, 205, 230) m

Tried & tested substitution yarns

My testers used a variety of yarns for their 2×2 Crochet Hats, in a truly amazing variety of color combinations. Some of them let their imagination run wild and used multiple colors for a whirly effect! Here’s a list of yarns recommended by them. The list is sorted alphabetically. If you’re looking for inspiration or a quick yarn substitution idea, this is the place to start!

Finished measurements

Size

Head circ.

Hat circ.

Short hat height

Long hat height

1

17.5″
(44 cm)

14″
(36 cm)

6.25″
(16 cm)

7.75″
(20 cm)

2

18.5″
(47 cm)

14″
(36 cm)

7″
(18 cm)

8.5″
(22 cm)

3

20″
(51 cm)

16″
(41 cm)

7.75″
(20 cm)

9.25″
(23 cm)

4

21.5″
(55 cm)

16″
(41 cm)

8.25″
(21 cm)

10.25″
(26 cm)

5

23″
(58 cm)

18″
(46 cm)

9″
(23 cm)

11″
(28 cm)

6

24″
(61 cm)

18″
(46 cm)

9.75″
(25 cm)

11.75″
(30 cm)

The beanie is designed to be worn with 3-6” (7.5-15 cm) of negative ease around the head.

The main stitch pattern creates a very stretchy fabric across the rows. If you want to adjust the beanie circumference, proceed as follows:

  • for a bigger circumference, repeat short rows A and B more times than the pattern suggests; this will also make the crown shaping deeper.
  • for a smaller circumference, repeat short rows A and B fewer times than the pattern suggests; this will also make the crown shaping shallower.

The height is measured from crown tip to bottom edge. The hat circumference is measured unstretched.

Work by Colt Tryon @coltystitched

The pattern

General notes

  • Level of difficulty: Intermediate.
  • Construction: The pattern is written for 6 sizes as follows: (1, 2, 3) (4, 5, 6). Follow your size only. The beanie is worked from side to side in turned rows, and each size is made up of 4 sections. Each section is made up of a combination of short and long rows used to shape the crown and reduce the bulk at the top. After completing all sections, the first and last rows are seamed together via SLSTs and the small hole at the top is cinched shut.
  • Pattern uses standard US terminology.
  • The symbol * is used to mark the beginning of a repeat sequence.
  • CH 1 at the beginning of rows does not count as ST. After working this CH 1, tug the yarn to minimize the loop before starting the row.
  • Stitch counts are given in brackets at the end of the row and in the Row Tracker.
  • When instructed to turn, always turn counterclockwise.

Stitch glossary

BLO

back loop only

BTLO

back third loop only

CH

chain

eHDC

extended half double crochet

fnd

foundation

HDC

half double crochet

hk

hook

lp(s)

loop(s)

PM

place marker

rem

remaining; remain(s)

RS

right side

SK

skip

SLST

slip stitch

ST(s)

stitch(es)

WS

wrong side

YO

yarn over

YOSLST

yarn over slip stitch

Special stitches

Extended half double crochet  (eHDC)

YO, insert hk through indicated lp and pull up a lp [3 lps on hk], YO and pull through 1st lp [3 lps on hk], YO and pull through all lps on hk [photos 1-8].

Photo 1: Back bumps of chains.
Photo 2: YO and insert hk in back bump of 2nd CH from hk.
Photo 3: YO and pull up a lp [3 lps on hk].
Photo 4: YO and pull through 1st lp [3 lps on hk].
Photo 5: YO and pull through all lps on hk. First eHDC completed.
Photo 6: YO and insert hk in back bump of next CH. YO and pull up a lp [3 lps on hk].
Photo 7: YO and pull through 1st lp [3 lps on hk].
Photo 8: YO and pull through all lps on hk. Second eHDC completed.

Back third loop only (BTLO)

Also known as the “TLO” (third loop only).

In this pattern, the SLST rows are always worked in the BTLO of the eHDC (and YOSLST) stitches from previous row. After turning your work, the back third loop of the eHDC (and YOSLST) will appear closest to you, sitting in front of the two usual front and back loops. This loop is always referred to as the “back third loop”, even if it appears on the front as you view your work from the WS. To work into this loop, insert the hook from the bottom up, in an upwards motion. See a photo and video tutorial here.

Photo 9: One row of eHDC completed, viewed from the WS.
Photo 10: The same row of eHDC viewed from the WS, with the back third loops highlighted in pink.

Yarn over slip stitch (YOSLST)

YO, insert hk through indicated lp and pull up a lp, pull left-most lp though rem 2 lps on hk. See a photo and video tutorial here.

Gauge

Unstretched: 16 ST x 16 rows = 4” (10 cm) in main pattern (blocked)

Stretched: 18 STs x 12 rows = 4” (10 cm) in main pattern

Complete the gauge swatch and block it the same way you would block your beanie. See my in-depth guide on how to block your crochet items. Note that some fibers, such as wool, may cause the fabric to relax after blocking, so you should take that into account when choosing a size.

Measure both your unstretched and stretched gauge. Measure the stretched gauge by stretching the swatch about halfway (don’t stretch it all the way, but also make sure it’s not too loose), then pinning it down to secure it into the stretched position. If your stretched gauge is smaller (or bigger) than 12 rows per 4” (10 cm), you may consider making the beanie circumference larger (or smaller). See the note about adjusting the beanie circumference under “Finished measurements”.

Gauge swatch directions

Row 1: CH 21 and eHDC in back bump of 2nd CH from hk and in back bump of each CH across. Turn counterclockwise. [20 eHDC]

Row 2: CH 1, SLST in BTLO (see Special stitches) of next eHDC and of each eHDC across. Turn counterclockwise.

Row 3: CH 1, eHDC in both lps of first SLST, eHDC in BLO of next SLST and of each SLST across until 1 ST rem, eHDC in both lps of last SLST. Turn counterclockwise.

Rows 4-19: Rep rows 2-3.

Row 20: Rep row 2.

Directions

Tutorial photos are numbered and referenced throughout the written instructions in brackets.

Section 1

Start with CH (26, 29, 32) (34, 37, 40) for a short hat, or CH (32, 35, 38) (42, 45, 48) for a long hat. Adjust this starting chain depending on your desired beanie height.

The starting tail marks the crown of the hat. Throughout the pattern, A-rows move towards the crown, and B-rows move towards the edge.

1. Fnd row A (RS): eHDC (see Special stitches) in back bump of 2nd CH from hk [Photo 3-Photo 5], PM in this CH to mark it as first CH to be seamed later, and do not remove this marker until you are about to seam the hat. eHDC in back bump of each CH across until 2 CHs rem [Photo 6-Photo 8, Photo 11], YOSLST (see Special stitches) in back bump of next CH [Photo 12-Photo 13]. PM in back bump of last CH. Turn counterclockwise, leaving last CH unworked.

[Short hat: (23, 26, 29) (31, 34, 37) eHDC, 1 YOSLST]

[Long hat: (29, 32, 35) (39, 42, 45) eHDC, 1 YOSLST]

Photo 11: eHDC in back bump of each CH until 2 CHs rem.
Photo 12: YO, insert hk in back bump of next CH.
Photo 13: Pull up a lp, pull left-most lp though rem 2 lps on hk. YOSLST is complete. Fnd row A is complete.

2. Fnd row B (WS): CH 1, SLST in BTLO (see Special stitches) of each ST across [Photo 9-Photo 10] until 1 eHDC rem [Photo 14-Photo 21], SLST in both lps (the regular, front and back lps) of last eHDC [Photo 22-Photo 23]. Turn counterclockwise.

[Short hat: (24, 27, 30) (32, 35, 38) SLST]

[Long hat: (30, 33, 36) (40, 43, 46) SLST]

Photo 14: CH 1.
Photo 15: Insert hk in BTLO of first ST.
Photo 16: YO and pull through both lps on hk. First SLST is complete.
Photo 17: Insert hk in BTLO of next ST.
Photo 18: YO and pull through both lps on hk. Second SLST is complete.
Photo 19: Repeat across (as seen with WS of the hat facing you).
Photo 20: Repeat across (as seen with RS of the hat facing you).
Photo 21: One eHDC remains.
Photo 22: Insert hk in both lps of last ST.
Photo 23: YO and pull through both lps on hk. Last SLST is complete. Fnd row B is complete.

3. Short row A (RS): CH 1, eHDC in both lps of 1st SLST, eHDC in BLO of next SLST and of each SLST across until 2 SLSTs rem [Photo 24-Photo 27], YOSLST in BLO of next SLST [Photo 28]. PM in BLO of last SLST. Turn counterclockwise, leaving last SLST unworked.

[Short hat: (22, 25, 28) (30, 33, 36) eHDC, 1 YOSLST]

[Long hat: (28, 31, 34) (38, 41, 44) eHDC, 1 YOSLST]

Photo 24: YO and insert hk in both lps of first ST.
Photo 25: Complete the first eHDC, then work eHDC in BLO across until 2 STs rem.
Photo 26: The BLO of the SLSTs.
Photo 27: Two SLSTs remain.
Photo 28: YOSLST in BLO of next ST. Short row A is complete.

4. Short row B (WS): CH 1, SLST in BTLO of each ST across until 1 eHDC rem, SLST in both lps of last eHDC [Photo 29-Photo 30]. Turn counterclockwise.

[Short hat: (22, 26, 29) (31, 34, 37) SLST]

[Long hat: (29, 32, 35) (39, 42, 45) SLST]

Photo 29: Short row B is complete.
Photo 30: Close-up on marked stitches at the crown.

Sizes 1 and 2: Rep short rows A and B 4 more times, for a total of 12 short rows (including the foundation rows). After last rep, you’ll have 6 stitch markers in place across the short rows [Photo 31-Photo 32]. Go to Long row A.

Sizes 3 and 4: Rep short rows A and B 5 more times, for a total of 14 short rows (including the foundation rows). After last rep, you’ll have 7 stitch markers in place across the short rows [Photo 31-Photo 32]. Go to Long row A.

Sizes 5 and 6: Rep short rows A and B 6 more times, for a total of 16 short rows (including the foundation rows). After last rep, you’ll have 8 stitch markers in place across the short rows [Photo 31-Photo 32]. Go to Long row A.

Photo 31: All short rows of Section 1 are complete.
Photo 32: Close-up on the marked stitches at the crown.

Work the YOSLSTs of Long row A, as well as the the SLSTs across the crown in Long row B extra loosely. Use a larger hook if necessary.

5. Long row A (RS): CH 1, eHDC in both lps of 1st SLST, eHDC in BLO of next SLST and of each SLST across until 1 SLST rem [Photo 33], YOSLST in BLO of last SLST of the row, YOSLST in each marked lp across the short row ends (incl. marked back bump of fnd CH), removing the stitch markers as you go [Photo 34]. Turn counterclockwise.

[Short hat: (18, 21, 23) (25, 27, 30) eHDC, (7, 7, 8) (8, 9, 9) YOSLST]

[Long hat: (24, 27, 29) (33, 35, 38) eHDC, (7, 7, 8) (8, 9, 9) YOSLST]

Photo 33: CH 1, eHDC in both lps of 1st SLST, eHDC in BLO of next SLST and of each SLST across until 1 SLST rem.
Photo 34: Long row A is complete.

6. Long row B (WS): CH 1, SLST in BTLO of each ST across until 1 eHDC rem, SLST in both lps of last eHDC. Turn counterclockwise [Photo 35].

[Short hat: (25, 28, 31) (33, 36, 39) SLST]

[Long hat: (31, 34, 37) (41, 44, 47) SLST]

This has completed Section 1.

Photo 35: Long row B is complete. This has completed Section 1.

Section 2

Rep [Short row A, Short row B] (6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) times [Photo 36]. Then, rep [Long row A, Long row B] once [Photo 37]. This has completed Section 2. Check the Row Tracker for stitch counts of each Short and Long row.

Photos 36-37: Section 2 is complete.

Sections 3 & 4

Rep Section 2, 2 more times. This has completed the body of the hat [Photo 38-Photo 41]. Go to Seaming.

Photos 38-39: Section 3 is complete.
Photos 40-41: Section 4 is complete. This has completed the body of the hat.

Seaming

Your hook is now at the brim of the hat. Fold your work with the wrong sides facing outwards (right sides facing each other) [Photo 42-Photo 43] and SLST the two edges together like so:

Insert hk through both lps of marked foundation chain (corresponding to the first ST of Fnd row A) and both lps of the first SLST from the last row [Photo 44], YO and pull through all lps on hk [Photo 45].

Then, *insert hk through both lps of the next foundation chain from the first row and the BLO of the next SLST from the last row [Photo 46], YO and pull through all lps on hk [Photo 47]. Rep from * across [Photo 48-Photo 49].

[Short hat: (25, 28, 31) (33, 36, 39) SLST]

[Long hat: (31, 34, 37) (41, 44, 47) SLST]

Photos 42-43: Fold your work with the wrong sides facing outwards (right sides facing each other).
Photo 44: Insert hk through both lps of the first foundation chain from the first row and both lps of the first SLST from the last row.
Photo 45: YO and pull through all lps on hk.
Photo 46: Insert hk through both lps of the next foundation chain from the first row and the BLO of the next SLST from the last row.
Photo 47: YO and pull through all lps on hk.
Photo 48: Repeat across.
Photo 49: Seam seen from the RS.

This method of joining produces a seam that is almost invisible from the RS.

Fasten off, leaving a tail of approx. 8″, and cinch the top shut using this tail and a yarn needle, going around through each row end and pulling the tail to close the hole [Photo 50-Photo 51]. Weave in all ends and turn the hat right side out.

Photos 50-51: Cinching the top shut using a yarn needle.

Right after you seam your hat, the rows will have a slight slant. Shape them into a vertical position and block the hat. The sample was gently steam blocked.

Congratulations, you have now completed your 2×2 Crochet Hat!

I love seeing and sharing your works in progress and finished objects.

Use the hashtag #2x2CrochetHat on Instagram and tag me @CrochetHighway so that I don’t miss them!

Work by Clarissa @avilakitten

Tester lookbook

My patterns would not be so smooth without the input of my team of talented testers. Swipe left & right for more photos of your favorite versions!

Want to test my future patterns? Check out how you can become a pattern tester for CrochetHighway!

Lori (lkwiatko on Ravelry)

Size 5 (short hat style)
172 yds of Lion Brand Heartland (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Amy (BrownEyedCrochet on Ravelry)

Size 4 (long hat style)
180 yds of Adelaide Fiber Company Catherine (aran weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Andrea (isolath on Ravelry)

Size 3 (long hat style)
164 yds of Abbey Road Wool To Be Wild (aran weight)
Hook size: 6.5 mm
Mods: Changed colors at beginning of long rows.

Colt (mmcrochet17 on Ravelry)

Size 6 (long hat style)
170 yds of Furls Wander (aran weight)
Hook size: 6.5 mm
Mods: None.

Brandy (Emeloukitty78 on Ravelry)

Size 2 (long hat style)
121 yds of Lion Brand Pound of Love (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm;3.75 at crown
Mods: The only thing I did different was use a 3.75 hook at the crown. I used it on the last 2 stitches on short row A and the last and the marked stitches on long row A. This was to help tighten the gaps in those stitches.

Laura @one_pinksunshine

Size 3 (short hat style)
130 yds of Hobbii Friends Wool, Hobbii Amigo XL (aran weight)
Hook size: 4 mm
Mods: None.

Lori (lkwiatko on Ravelry)

Size 5 (short hat style)
172 yds of Lion Brand Wool-Ease (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Andrea (isolath on Ravelry)

Size 3 (long hat style)
180 yds of Abbey Road Wool To Be Wild (aran weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Jessica (VibrantViola on Ravelry)

Size 5 (long hat style)
171 yds of Space Cadet Capella (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Caitlin (divergentfibreart on Ravelry)

Size 6 (short hat style)
176 yds of Lion Brand Heartland (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm
Mods: None.

Clarissa (Avilakitten on Ravelry)

Size 5 (long hat style)
172 yds of Furls Wander (aran weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm
Mods: I used a contrast color for the long rows.

Lucia (crochetwithlu on Ravelry)

Size 4 (short hat style)
157 yds of Noro Iroshizuku (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Colt (mmcrochet17 on Ravelry)

Size 6 (short hat style)
150 yds of Furls Wander (aran weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Dora (Oneflychik10 on Ravelry)

Size 5 (short hat style)
173 yds of Caron One Pound (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Sarah (SarahE-Crochets on Ravelry)

Size 2 (short hat style)
87 yds of Woolberry Fiber Co. Berry (aran weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Heather (hauetermama on Ravelry)

Size 4 (long hat style)
170 yds of Knit Picks City Tweed (aran weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm
Mods: None.

Julia @stitches_seams_and_chaos

Size 5 (short hat style)
98 yds of Wolle Rödel Rigato (bulky weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Azza (azzahakim on Ravelry)

Size 1 (long hat style)
115 yds of Red Heart Chic Sheep (aran weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Laura (Laurilla on Ravelry)

Size 5 (long hat style)
208 yds of Katia Scotch Tweed (aran weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Mary (mjcloset4crochet on Ravelry)

Size 2 (short hat style)
100.26 yds of Josh Milk Cotton Yarn (aran weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm
Mods: None.

Nagy Andrea (andreakinga on Ravelry)

Size 3 (short hat style)
137 yds of Schachenmayr Bravo Quick & Easy (bulky weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Kirstin (kpiehl on Ravelry)

Size 5 (short hat style)
151 yds of Rowan Pure Wool Superwash Worsted (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5.5 mm
Mods: None.

Poornima (Poornimagv on Ravelry)

Size 4 (short hat style)
140 yds of Ganga Pound of Happiness (worsted weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Shu-Wen (ShuWenT on Ravelry)

Size 4 (long hat style)
180 yds of Cascade 220 Superwash Wave (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Poornima (PoornimaBhat on Ravelry)

Size 4 (short hat style)
120 yds of Ganga Acrowools Brand Desire (aran weight)
Hook size: 5 mm
Mods: None.

Serena (Ssharwell on Ravelry)

Size 1 (short hat style)
70 yds of Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

Yana (Ysimony on Ravelry)

Size 5 (long hat style)
296 yds of Alize Burcum Batik (worsted weight)
Hook size: 6 mm
Mods: None.

I’d LOVE to see your work, so be sure to shout out to me @CrochetHighway on Instagram and use the #CrochetHighway hashtag for a chance to be featured on my stories!

Thirsty for more? Why not check out some of my recently published crochet patterns and stitch tutorials:

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